Along the Ningaloo

It’s been over two weeks since my last blog post and there are several reasons for that. The main one is that Robin has been suffering from a “Swimmer’s Ear”, a very painful inflammation of the outer ear. It’s often caused by extensive swimming in not so clean swimming pools and constant humidity in the ear canal. Don’t blame him – it was the only way to get us through days with extremely high temperatures (the other reason why I didn’t write anything on my blog). First time we went to see the doctor in Carnarvon, about 150 km away from Red Bluff, where we had spent the night.

 

He prescribed ear drops and pain killers and told Robin that he couldn’t swim for the next two weeks. A devastating verdict in this weather. In good faith that the antibiotic eardrops would help Robin within 24 hours, we continued our trip north. Unfortunately, the next 48 hours were just as painful for Robin, even with more pain killers than prescribed. So we went to see another doctor three days later, this time in Exmouth (180 km away). Robin was getting better by then and this doctor told him that he could swim again immediately, just with earplugs and swimming cap. What a relief! He also prescribed another antibiotic which luckily did its job and Robin got well within a couple of days.

I suffered a lot with Robin, knowing just too well how much this kind of inflammation hurts. Staying at places like Red Bluff and Warroora Station far away from civilization didn’t really help either. The nature there is ruthless and didn’t offer us any mercy. The sun burning during the day, not a tree for shadow, the ocean too wild and intimidating for a swim, too warm and extremely humid nights (the tent was literally dripping). Lying there next to Robin having so much pain, I didn’t feel too brave anymore I must admit. But fortunately, things got better soon! 

 

 

 

Arriving in Coral Bay was a relief and we spent six laid-back days in this green oasis. Coral Bay is a little settlement protected from the Indian ocean by the Ningaloo Reef. This reef is Australia’s second largest reef, a so-called fringing reef (connected to the mainland) and the coral start literally right at the water’s edge. There are over 500 species of tropical fish and over 200 species of coral. This spectacular underwater world is so contrary to the dry land above! We started with some snorkelling from the beach at Bill’s Bay and were very much impressed about the variety of fish we saw just metres from the shore.

 

Bill’s Bay at Coral Bay

 

One day we went on a commercial snorkelling tour aboard the beautiful catamaran “Coral Breeze”. It took us to the outer reef and we had the opportunity to swim with green turtles and white tipped reef sharks, we saw beautiful coral formations and of course a huge array of colourful reef fish and other marine life.

After that day on the ocean I had made up my mind: I wanted to swim with the famous whale sharks. Every year from March to August, the world’s biggest fish congregate along the Ningaloo Reef. These creatures can grow up to 15 metres long and have a life span of up to 70 years. Their name comes from the fish’s physiology, being as large as some species of the whales and being a filter feeder. And they are totally harmless to humans. So, I couldn’t let go this once in a lifetime opportunity! And I managed to convince Dag and Robin to join me. When we got to Exmouth, our next destination, we booked a tour with “Whaleshark n Dive”. You might think it’s scary to swim with these giants. I can assure you, it is not. The crew on board made sure we got into the water the right moment (they use spotter planes to locate the sharks), lined up on the right side and dived under just when the whale shark passed slowly by. What really was scary – at least for me – was to jump into heavy swell far out in the Indian ocean. It took me and Robin quite some will power, but we never regretted it. It was truly unforgettable! And allow me to say how impressed I was that Robin joined me, that was so brave of him. But we both prefer to snorkel inside of the reef, in shallow water where we see the bottom! The beautiful underwater photographs are taken by Jess Hadden, a professional underwater photographer and member of the crew.

 

 

 

The next big highlight was Robins 10^th birthday. We had booked two nights in a little resort in Exmouth as a surprise for him, and celebrated his day with presents, cake, balloons, pool, dinner at the restaurant – and air condition. He was a very happy boy and according to him this was his best birthday ever. Also, because he for the first time could go to the pool alone – children below ten must be accompanied by an adult at all times…

 

From here we’re heading out to the coast to Cape Range National Park. There will be more snorkelling and swimming, a tour on a river boat in Yardie Creek, and more dreaming about cold showers, cold tiles, cold sheet… But more about that next time.