Goodbye Oslo

This is it – waiting is over and we’re off. After weeks and months of preparations we’re finally heading for Australia, where we’ll be spending the next seven months.  

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Tick off the last day

 

We have said goodbye to friends and family, colleagues and school mates. Some of the goodbyes were quite emotional for me, realizing how much friends and colleagues mean to me. Wishing everybody merry Christmas and a Happy New Year – and happy Easter, 17th of May (Norway’s National day) and a good summer was crazy, but at the same time just so cool! There has been a massive storm of butterflies in my stomach the past days, and Robin had trouble falling asleep because he was so excited. 

The last days have been hectic. Trying to get to an end at work (quite a challenge for Dag). Emptying the flat and cleaning it, packing all our stuff and repacking it to reduce volume. In between meeting up with friends to share a last meal, a last beer or exchange Christmas presents for the kids. I was doing everything with a big grin on my face, realizing that our goal is getting closer and closer.  

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Waiting for the taxi taking us to the train station

 

Sitting in the hotel at Oslo airport now, the feeling is indescribable! We really made it! If Robin should learn ONE thing, it must be this: if there is a will, there is a way. Anything is possible.  

And to all of you reading this, I hope you follow your bliss. I hope you follow your goosebumps. I hope you follow your wanderlust. I hope you follow your dreams. Even if that means saving money for a long time (no cleaning lady, personal trainer, latest fashion in the closet). And no steady pay check for a while when we’re out travelling. Because when you’re old you’re not going to think about the money you made and spent. You’re going to think about the people you love, all the beautiful places you went to, and your dreams that came alive. Gain the courage to follow whatever makes you feel the most alive and never stop chasing your dreams. 

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We’re staying at Gardermoen for one night

 

Live a life that you’re proud of. 

And off we go… merry Christmas everybody!2017-12-21 17.21.05.jpg

Travelling with a child

Travelling is to a certain extent driven by an egoistic motivation to experience something new, broaden my horizon, live free. But more important than the satisfaction of this personal yearning is the fact that we are travelling together, spend seven months in each other’s company more or less 24/7. We will create memories as a family that we will carry with us for the rest of our lives.

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On the way to Cape Leveque, WA, 2015

 

During our preparations, I’ve been thinking a lot about our son and how he will experience the coming months. Is it ok to take him out of school, away from his friends, to be on the road together with his parents for such a long time? Will he miss his friends, football training and his Lego? Will he be homesick?

Well, I don’t know the answers to all these questions. Time will show. But I do know how much he has learned during our recent trips. Not all classrooms have four walls… How proud I was for example watching him making friends as we settled down at a campsite, not even speaking the language. A ball is enough and he is in the game. Experiencing this has made him self-confident and independent – a fundamental capacity for a good life.

He has also learned to adapt when things don’t go as expected. Life does not always go according to plan, but that’s ok.

When you travel with your children you get away from the normal day to day rush of life. You’re not in a hurry, don’t have to reach work or school. Instead, there is time to create memories as a family.

I am looking forward to living into the day, having time to be spontaneous, figuring out together what to do and where to drive. Going to bed when it gets dark and getting up with the sun. Being out in nature constantly.

But most of all, being together with Dag and Robin.

Only 16 days until departure…

Remoteness

I usually check my mobile phone at least every hour. Facebook, Instagram, Snap, WhatsApp, Skype – I’ve got them all on my phone and they are pretty much in use all of them. Not to mention Netflix and all it’s entertaining series with countless episodes, which often are more tempting in the evenings than a book. Not that I wouldn’t enjoy reading, but after a busy day it is just so comfortable to relax in front of the screen.

Well, I better enjoy it now while we’re still in Oslo. Travelling through Australia the way we’re planning will be quite a different experience. Apart from the most populated areas, mobile phone coverage is almost non-existent.

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Telstra’s mobile phone coverage around Australia

 

How will life be without the entertainment, the constant information flow, connected to friends 24/7? I suppose we’ll get used to it quickly. Already in Tasmania we will be staying in remote areas for days at a time, not being able to connect to the rest of the world. I am convinced I won’t miss all the social media. We will be busy discovering this beautiful country. Driving, hiking, putting up our campsite, preparing meals outdoors, planning the next day. We will be playing games before dark, going to bed early, getting up with the sun. If I feel like reading I’ve got my Kindle and countless travel guides.

What worries me is not having the possibility to keep in touch with my family and closest friends. I will miss the weekly Skype calls with Switzerland and Hongkong. Getting their news and sharing my adventures with them. Chatting on the phone for an hour with my best friend, getting the latest updates from her daily life. Seven months is a long time and I don’t want to lose touch completely! So please, send me emails when we’re Down Under, tell me what’s going on in your lives, leave a comment on my blog. And you can be sure that I will grab every opportunity to make a call, send a reply or publish another post.

But now I’ve got to go – Netflix is calling… 😊

Dangerous creatures

We get a lot of questions from concerned friends about the dangers of travelling through Australia. Everybody seems to know about the fact that many of the world’s deadliest creatures are home in Australia.

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Great Keppel Island, Queensland (2014)

 

It is time to help dispel the myth that all Australian wildlife is out to kill us!

We will be travelling through many different climate zones from the driest desert to tropical forest. Spiders will be everywhere, so I start with them.

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A Redback spider with its prominent red stripe on the back

 

Of all the spiders (approximately 840 different species), only two are deadly: the Redback and the Funnel Web Spider. On our first trip, we saw a Redback in Grampians National Park, but since it was sitting quietly in its web it wasn’t any scary. It is much more likely that we’ll encounter a Huntsman Spider (again!), which can be traumatizing due to its size (up to 15 centimeters across the legs) and hairy, fat legs and body. But those are not poisonous, a bite just causes local swelling and a little bit of pain.

To sum it up: bites from spiders are incredibly rare, and fatal bites are rarer still. There have been no recorded deaths from spiders since anti-venom was introduced in the 1970’s.

Wherever we travel, there will be snakes, though they are very uncommon to see. We saw snakes on both of our trips, but only while driving. Like most of the animals in Australia, they fear us humans. Since they can feel the vibrations in the ground, it is wise to walk with a firm step. We will avoid walking through tall grass in flip-flops and we’ll make as much noise as possible while walking to scare them away.

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On a playground in Bargara, Queensland (2014)

 

In the very rare case that one is bitten, anti-venom is widely available and highly effective if you receive it quickly (within a few hours of the bite). So that’s why we have bought a satellite telephone and will be able to call for help even in remote areas without mobile phone coverage. While waiting, we know what to do: place a firm (not too tight) bandage around the wound and immobilize the limb. Important also to remember that the wound is not supposed to be washed, as the venom is used to identify the type of snake, in order to provide the correct anti-venom.

Saltwater crocodiles inhabit the Northern coastline of Australia, where we’ll spend the last couple of months on our trip (Northern Queensland). They are the only animals in Australia that are actively looking to kill you, they literally eat anything that moves. The best advice is to heed warning signs and to seek information from locals. If there is a sign that warns “Crocodiles inhabit these waters”, we will neither swim there, nor walk too close to the water’s edge.

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Saltwater crocodile in East Alligator River, Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory (2015)

 

There are a few marine creatures apart from sharks (we’re not surfers, so chances are tiny that we would be attacked by one) that we want to avoid: Box jellyfish and the so-called Irukandji jellyfish. They are in tropical waters from November to May so we won’t be swimming in the ocean at this time of the year (we’ll reach the Tropics in May). Alternatively, we can get into a very fancy stinger suit, as we did in the Whitsunday Islands during our first trip.

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Ready for snorkelling in Whitsunday Islands, Queensland (2014)

 

Other dangerous animals like the Blue Ringed Octopus, Stonefish, Cone Snail and Stingrays have only killed a handful of people in recorded history, so I am quite relaxed about those.

While you have got a lot of useful information about all the exciting animals we’ll be surrounded by, me on the other hand have come one step forward with my preparations. As you might have understood, spiders are not really my favorite animals, at least not the big ones. As a part of my preparations I’ve been to Oslo Reptile Park and held a Tarantella.  My friend Anja (she’s a doctor) explained me that this kind of exposure therapy is called ‘Flooding’, a psychotherapeutic method for overcoming phobias.  Anyway, my main goal is not to lose control next time I find myself face to face with one of these lovely species. Wish me luck…

You might wonder…

So why are we doing it? What’s our motivation, our driving force? Why leave comfort, affluence and safety behind in favour of a life on the road, exposed to extreme weather conditions, dust and dangerous creatures. Why swap our big flat and weekend house for a car with roof tent, no more comfortable bed, no more privacy, no more heating cables in the bathroom and private shower? And not just for the length of a usual holiday, but for more than half a year?

Well, the short answer is: because we have the possibility. The desire for doing something beyond the norm, really pushing the limits was so tempting once we realized that it just might be feasible. We couldn’t resist.

And then there is this enormous fascination for Australia, for its wide landscape, its grand nature, its amazing wildlife. A few experiences stand out especially clear in my memory. One of them was on our first trip when we spent a week on Kangaroo Island south of Adelaide. Early one morning we drove out to the so-called Remarkable Rocks, one of the best-known icons of the island.

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The rocks are a collection of enormous granite boulders sitting atop a giant dome of lava, eroded by wind, sea spray and rain over some 500 million years. Sitting there alone, watching the wild sea, thinking about that the next land we’d meet further south would be Antarctica… The power of Nature there and then was magical.

Another time I had a similar experience was on our second trip in Keep River National Park in Northern Territory. Reaching our campsite in the late afternoon after a long drive, I decided to do a walk of 8 km, even if Robin and Dag didn’t want to join me. The track was well signed (as usual in Australia) and I knew I had enough time before sunset if I walked at a certain pace. I was completely alone in this fantastic landscape, passing some beautiful rock art sites and then climbing up a moderate hill. The lookout offered spectacular views in all directions, and I felt so small, but at the same time so well and safe out there by myself. It was quite emotional.

I know one doesn’t have to travel all the way to Australia to have similar experiences in nature. What makes Australia special to me is this vast land, uninhabited for miles and miles, yet full of signs that witness of the presence of Aboriginals thousands of years ago. Australia’s fascinating fauna and flora adds up to my obsession.

Easy to imagine our excitement knowing that it’s only six weeks and 2 days until departure…

 

Our journey

It’s about time to tell you how we’re planning to spend the seven months of our trip. We get a lot of questions about that, many are asking if we’re planning to work down under, if Robin is going to attend school, where we’re going to live. The answer is simple: we’ll be on the road, travelling with our car, a hopefully reliable Toyota Hilux, which I presented in an earlier blog post.

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Just before Christmas we’ll get on the plane in Oslo heading for Sydney. We’ll be spending a few days in Sydney, more precisely in Manly, a beautiful beach-side suburb of northern Sydney. On the 27th of December, we’ll pick up our car and head south, to Melbourne. From there we continue with the ferry over to Tasmania – see my earlier blog post. After a few weeks on Tasmania we’ll return to Melbourne and meet up with friends we got to know during our trip two years ago through the Kimberley region.

Next destination is Adelaide. We might just drive along the Great Ocean Road once again (first time in 2014). It’s after all one of the world’s most scenic coastal drives. From Adelaide we head west, passing Port Augusta.

Next on the route is crossing the Nullarbor Plain (Latin: nullus, “no”, and arbor, “tree”) direction Perth. To give you an idea of distances: Adelaide to Perth is about the same as Oslo to Naples, approximately 2’500 km. Before we reach Perth, we will spend a few weeks in the Southwest, exploring its many beautiful places.

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The Nullarbor Plain on the Great Australian Bight

Heading up the West coast passed Perth will give us many opportunities to enjoy beach life, snorkelling, boat excursions and hopefully some whale watching. One of the big highlights of our trip will be Karijini National Park south of Port Hedland, with its narrow gorges with hidden, sculptured pools and rocks glowing like molten lava.

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Karijini National Park, Western Australia

As I mentioned earlier I am not quite sure yet how we get to the Red Centre from the West coast. One possibility is crossing the desert, about 2’200 kilometres through remote areas. The other possibility is driving up to the Kimberley and follow The National Highway east and then south to Alice Springs. It’s certainly a detour but probably more comfortable.

The Red Centre is huge, remote, full of stunning national parks featuring awe inspiring landscapes. Uluru and Kata Tjuta are among the most famous places, but there is so much more… We’ll stay for a few weeks.

 

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Kata Tjuta (‘many heads’)

The last part of our trip will lead us to Cape York, a large remote peninsula located in Far North Queensland. It is the largest unspoiled wilderness in northern Australia and supposed to be one of the last remaining wilderness areas on Earth. We were on its southern end in 2014, in the Daintree National Park, and absolutely loved this tropical rain forest. There will be some hard-core driving but I guess by that time we know exactly how much we and our car can withstand.

In Cairns we’ll sell our car and spend a few days in a nice beach resort in Kewarra, washing off the dust after seven months on the road.

 

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Kewarra Beach Resort

 

 

The world belongs to the brave

It all started in the beginning of 2013. We had been talking about the possibility of travelling a little longer before Robin started at school the year after. But where to go? USA seamed too normal, Asia too daring. Australia seemed the perfect destination. Safe, English speaking, and far enough away. We talked to a travel agent in Oslo and shortly after booked our trip for January and February 2014. Not knowing much about camping life, we rented a HUGE caravan, equipped with kitchen facilities including microwave, shower, toilet – you name it! A real motorhome. We travelled from Cairns to Sydney, flew to Melbourne and drove to Adelaide. And we had a fantastic time. 2014-01-09 12.44.42

Returning to Norway in the end of February was tough, especially for me it seemed. I missed the vegetation, the birds, the sun, the freedom. And it felt like it was over for good, Robin would start at school and we would not have the chance again to travel back to this outstanding country. I was mildly depressed the next two months, until we concluded than we had to return as soon as possible. Started planning our next trip, this time to the Kimberley.

June 2016, we sat on the plane all the way to Broome, a small coastal town in Western Australia. We had rented a car again, but this time it was a 4WD without kitchen and bathroom, the only reasonable car driving along the Gibb River Road, the famous off-road between Derby and Kununurra. No comfort, but we didn’t miss it. 2015-06-27 14.18.17.jpg

Travelling through the outback, living outside for weeks, no fixed roof above our heads – it was a fantastic experience! We learned a lot, about the country, its people, but also about ourselves. We were no longer intimidated by the nature, including all the creepy creatures. I would be lying if I claimed that I’m not worried about meeting a Huntsman spider again – last time in our flat in Sydney was quite nerve wracking. It was monstrous! But at least I know now that they’re not dangerous…

In the Kimberley we met many families being on the road for many months. We started wondering if we could do the same? Take some months off and travel more, see more, experience more. Returning after six weeks we were convinced we would return, one way or the other. A few months later our dream was getting more real. We made a budget, talked to the school and our employer. Half a year seemed realizable. Nothing could stop us now.

That was in the beginning of 2016. Since then we have hardly dreamt of anything else than our next trip. A lot had to be organized – as mentioned in an earlier blog post. And now we’re almost there. Nine weeks from today. I can’t tell you how grateful I feel, that we have the chance to fulfil our dream. And proud. Very proud that we dared go through with an idea that seemed quite far off. I am convinced we’ll have the time of our lives the seven months we’ll be spending in this amazing country. And it we’ll be worth every penny (Norwegian kroner to be precise…) and every minute of preparation. 

Less than 100 days to go…

Summer is definitely over, the days here in Oslo are getting shorter, autumn is coming. But I couldn’t care less if it’s cold and dark in the morning. Suddenly our departure isn’t that far away anymore, less than 100 days… and that fills me with a lot of positive energy.

Let’s explain to those of you who don’t really know what I am talking about: Dag, Robin and I will be leaving for Australia just before Christmas. And this time, our third trip down under, we’ll be staying for 7 months! After more than two years of planning our dream is coming true. And there has been a lot of planning and organizing, I can assure you. School and work were the first issues to be clarified. Making a budget and figuring out if we can afford it was also an early task. Then came more practical things like organizing a car, roughly planning the itinerary, booking flights and a few places to stay, in Sydney over Christmas and Cairns during the last days of our trip. Applying for the visas (Subclass 600, up to 12 months) was a lot of work – certified copies of passports and birth certificates, bank statements, evidence of property, confirmation of employment, travel insurance and certificate of residence – just to mention a few. But it was worth it: lest than 48 hours after applying online our visas had been granted.

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We have also rented out our house in Nesodden. As one can imagine this means a lot of work. Cleaning to take pictures, publishing the house on the internet, dealing with 50-60 people being interested, meeting a few of them, writing a contract, emptying the house and cleaning again. But now it’s done and we’re happy that we found such a nice tenant. And we know what to expect when we rent out our flat in town.

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I’ll tell you more about our itinerary another time. And about all the dangerous creatures we will meet on our trip – we get so many questions about that! And finally: don’t forget that this is my first blog. I haven’t really thought a lot about how to organize it, what to write about, how to keep you interested. Feel free to send me your feedback, questions and wishes. I still have 84 days to practice until take-off…

 

Time flies

It’s been a while since I’ve published something on this blog. Quite a few things have been organized in the meantime. First of all, we’ve booked the ferry Spirit of Tasmania from Melbourne to Devonport. We’ll be leaving in the evening of 30th of December and arriving in Tasmania between 9 to 11 hours later.

Spirit of Tasmania

From Devonport we’ll be heading West to Stanley, a small town on the north-west coast of Tasmania. We’ve recently got to know this place watching the motion picture “Light between the Oceans” which is partly filmed here. In Stanley we’ve booked two nights at the local caravan park. Stanley is famous for its fresh seafood, so I guess we’ll be spending New Year’s Eve at one of the local fish restaurants.

Stanley

The most distinctive landmark in Stanley is The Nut, an old volcanic plug that rises 143 metres above the town. You can eather walk to the top via a steep track or take a chairlift…

From here we are going to drive anti-clockwise down the remote West Coast towards the Capital Hobart. How long we’ll be staying in Tassie we don’t know yet – we just bought a one-way ticket for the ferry 🙂

Tasmania