Hong Kong is in the midst of change, as China seeks to gain a stronger political grip on the special administrative region. Recent government proposals to extend Beijing’s power to Hong Kong have caused outrage amongst locals and outrage has lead to large scale protests around government buildings and an expanding range of the city, including the airport.
Naturally, all of the above had me wondering if it’s safe to visit Hong Kong right now. Though since the situation at the airport had normalized and my brother, living in Hong Kong, told us it was reasonably easy to avoid the protesting crowds, Robin and I decided to go through with our initial plans.
While I have been in Hong Kong several times before, it is Robin’s first time visiting both Asia and such a huge city. With its 7,4 million inhabitants on 1’104 square kilometres, it is almost 500 times more densely populated than Norway (5,3 million on 385’207 square kilometres). Seeing the massive high-rise neighbourhoods, immense concrete highway and railway structures, the bustling harbour on the way in from the airport, certainly makes a huge impression. Not to mention arriving at my brother’s place, one of Hong Kong’s tallest residential towers situated over Kowloon Station, where doors are opened for us by a smiling staff each time we pass the lobby. Standing by the floor to ceiling windows on the 68th floor, viewing the harbour in front and Lantau further out, is simply stunning.
After dinner in East Tsim Sha Tsui we stroll down to Tsim Sha Tsui promenade. From here you have spectacular views of Victoria Harbour and the opposite skyline of Hong Kong Island – a good introduction to the city on our first evening.
I could sit here for hours observing buildings, ships, lights and people posing, though jetlag and the different climate hits us and we are on the way home shortly after. Before turning inn, we take a short detour to West Kowloon Station, Hong Kong’s new speed rail terminus, an impressive building marked by grand steel structures, concrete slabs, huge glass panels and curving stairways up to a waste roof garden.
After a good night sleep and having checked the current situation in the city, we decide to take the bus 15 from the ferry pier to the Peak, a nice ride passing Hong Kong’s central business district before climbing up on Peak Road, following the very winding and typical Hong Kong hillside road with its many twists and turns with sudden fall offs overlooking the south side of Hong Kong island far below.
We’re riding the Peak Tram down and up again – only possible because of the almost total absence of tourists (usually you have to queue for hours) – we follow Lugard Road, a popular walking path along the hillside westwards and climb High West Peak. The view is obscured by haze due to air pollution and we can hardly make out Christoph’s building on the other side of the harbour.
While I enjoy Monday by myself visiting the Museum of Tea Ware at Flagstaff House in Hong Kong Park, Christoph takes Robin to Ocean Park, an amusement park with roller coasters, oceanarium and animal shows. They obviously have a lot of fun despite temperatures well above 30 degrees and air pollution.
On the following day, China marks its 70th anniversary and we decide to stay at home. As expected, there are huge demonstrations that day, becoming more and more violent during the afternoon and early evening. Many MTR stations are closed, as shopping malls, restaurants etc. It’s certainly wise to stay inn, and we enjoy the afternoon at the swimming pool, feeling very privileged.
Luckily, everything seems to be calm the next day and we take a small ferry out to Lamma Island to go for a hike. The island is a really nice change to the lively city even more emphasized due to the near complete absence of tourists due to the current political situation.
We cross the island from Yung Shue Wan Ferry Pier to Sok Kwu Wan, climb up the hill behind the little village on a terribly steep path, hardly visible through high grass and very hot… but are rewarded with an amazing view over Lamma Island with its many peculiar rocks, the south of Hong Kong Island and the sea with countless ships in and out of the harbour.
Lunch at one of the small fishing restaurants at the shore is a highlight, and Robin proves his abilities to eat with sticks, even slippery small pieces of chicken and fish.
On our last day I want to show Robin two of my favourite places in Hong Kong: Chi Lin Nunnery, a large temple complex, and Nan Lian Garden, situated at Diamond Hill, Kowloon. Suddenly stepping into this tranquil and unique universe is fascinating and the contrast of the tall skyscrapers surrounding very special.
After lunch and a stroll through ‘Sneaker Street’ (Fa Yuen Street), Ladies Market and Nathan Street we are happy to get home and cool down at the pool. Neither Robin nor I are used to these high temperatures combined with rather bad air.
After six days it is time to return home again. We have managed almost everything on our to-do list, including riding a Ding Ding (tram), taking the Star Ferry and eating lots of foreign food. Christoph has taken great care of us, showing us lots of places, including many good restaurants around town. Spending time with him is always a pleasure not least for Robin who adores his uncle. I am already looking forward for travelling together with him again.
RCD on Walkabout 