The Bay of Kotor

Approaching the famous Bay of Kotor from the Northeast, we first cross the rugged and very rocky Lovcen mountains – almost impenetrable in different wars in the past. Then we get a first glimpse of water far below us. Following the winding road down, suddenly traffic in front of us comes to a stop. A car in front of us just got hit by falling rocks. The passenger side window and mirror are smashed, big rocks lie on the road. Luckily, nobody got hurt and I am relieved as we reach the bottom. Instead of driving all around the bay we chose to take the ferry from Kamenari to Lepetane. A 10 minutes ride crossing the bay at its most narrow section, only 340 metres wide. During WWII they had hidden a massive metal chain below the water surface at this very spot, to prevent hostile ships coming in.

We find a small campground in Stoliv, narrow but charming and right next to the shore. Perfect for a morning run and swim the next day. We then drive into Kotor and spend half a day in this beautiful town which is included in UNESCO’s World Heritage Site. The old port is surrounded by fortifications built during the Venetian period between15th and 17^th centuries.

We stroll through the narrow streets of the old town and visit a few of the churches, before we climb the 1’350 steps up to the Castle St. John. The view from the top is certainly worth the effort – it is awesome.

The castle is part of a huge fortification system that protected the medieval town, containing ramparts, towers, citadels, gates, bastions, forts, cisterns and other buildings. The size of it is simply impressive. After a small lunch in town we get onboard of a small speed boat, having booked a half-day tour. This landscape certainly deserves being seen from the water. Our guide takes us first to the two islets off the coast of Perast: Gospa od Skrpjela (Lady of the Rock) and Sveti Dorde (Saint George). Sveti Dorde contains a monastery which is not open to the public. Gospa od Skrpjela is an artificial island.

According to legend the island was made over the centuries by local fishermen who kept an ancient oath after finding the icon of Madonna and Child on a small rock at the same spot. They sank both rocks and old and seized ships loaded with rocks, until it was big enough for the church. Adjacent to the church is a small museum, which we also have time to visit. From there we continue, stopping at one of three submarine tunnels which were built by the Yugoslav Army. The outside of the opening is covered by fake rocks which makes it invisible from the air. Entering the 100 metres long tunnel feels a little bit like being in a James Bond movie.

On our way out to the open sea we pass Mamula, an uninhabited little island with an old fort that was converted into a concentration camp during WWII. Montenegro’s government has recently given green light for a luxury resort redevelopment – not the right way of preserving history if you ask me. Last stop on our tour is the Blue Cave where we enjoy a swim in the beautiful sea. What a day!

We can’t leave this area just yet and spend another day exploring the coast by car. We visit the Maritime Heritage Museum in Tivat, mainly to see the submarine put on display outside of the museum. We then cross the bay once again with the ferry and drive westwards towards Croatia. The last town before the border is Herceg Novi, another major tourist destination with its medieval old town and castle Forte Mare.

Leaving the bay of Kotor, we again chose a small road, from Tivat up the steep limestone mountains. We follow its many sharp bends and get the most dramatic views over the whole bay and the Adriatic Sea. Later that day we stop at Cetinje, the old royal capital of Montenegro. Many stately mansions dating from the days European ambassadors lived here, share the same street as singe-storey cottages of very simple standard. A colourful and lively little place, again full of history.

Before leaving Montenegro for good, we stay at the beach of Donji Stoj all the way in the south. For the first time we find a camping site that is well equipped and reasonably modern. Robin is suffering from stomach pain and glad we stay at a place with good amenities.

After putting up our tents under some beautiful pine trees, the guy from the reception stops by in the afternoon, recommending us moving away from the trees. Another storm is obviously approaching. We do as he says. In the evening the sky doesn’t look promising and just after 11 pm it starts. First thunder and lightning over the mountains further inland, then getting closer and closer. An hour later we are in the middle of it, lightning close by and deafening thunder. We end up sitting in the car for an hour or so, feeling a little safer there than in our tents. It is a scary experience I must admit, but all goes well in the end and we are back in our sleeping bags for the rest of the night.

From here it’s only a few kilometres to the Albanian border. That’s where we’ll be heading next.